LloydMartin

I first heard of LloydMartin in the February issue of Seattle Magazine, where it got a great review. It’s rare that I venture to Queen Anne for dinner, but a friend of mine was in the area, so I thought what the heck.

Before I moved to here in 2009, I thought all Seattle restaurants were outfitted with stained wooden tables with a votive neatly placed in the center; a wrap around wooden bar; an espresso machine that looked more like a ’57 Chevy than a coffee maker; and some version of Brussels sprouts and nettle on the menu.  After realizing that most restaurants are not at all like that, it was nice walking into LloydMartin and seeing that my idyllic image still exists in Seattle.

While the Brussels sprouts were replaced with roasted carrots and nettles were replaced with black trumpets, the menu was still an eclectic blend of the best produce and meat that the Pacific Northwest has to offer.  We began the meal with hamachi crudo with white grapefruit and meyer lemon. The tartness of the fish made my cheeks pucker, but what surprised me most was the flecks of gray salt on top that gave the dish the texture that it needed. Next, we had the shrimp with chorizo, sherry and plugra (a fancy European-style butter with higher buttermilk content.) It reminded me of what we Cajuns call BBQ shrimp—shrimp roasted in butter and garlic.  I would have liked more than two croutons to sop up the juice at the bottom of the bowl, but it was still tasty.  My favorite dish of the meal was our main course: chicken leg & thigh with roasted carrots, citrus and a medley of mushrooms.  Again, the flecks of salt with the crispy chicken skin had me making sounds of culinary pleasure.  The meat was tender, the carrots were sweet and the mushrooms were mossy deliciousness.  For dessert we had the maple flan, banana and waffle, which was an outstanding, not cloyingly sweet end to the meal.

The wine list is extensive, and the pours by the glass are not that pricey; however, my first glass of Olsen Estate 2008 Red Blend was a stingy pour.  My next glass of Nottola 2010 Dei Colli Senesi Chianti was more generous.  There is also a choice of three Dry Sodas for those who don’t want any alcohol. It’s important to note that there is not a full bar, so if you’re craving a Negroni, you’ll have to go elsewhere.

Overall, the experience was good.  The service was outstanding—our server was knowledgeable, attentive and efficient.  He coursed out the meals perfectly, so I never felt rushed or pressured to choose the next course.  My only issue with LloydMartin is that it’s a bit pricey for such small plates.  We walked out of there with a $90 bill, and I could have eaten at least another small plate to feel wholly full.